I was going to visit Lucknow and tried to find out about the major tourist hot spots in the city. This is when I came to know about the Bara Imambara and Bhool-bhulaiya. Formally, the imambara is referred to as the Asafi Imambara. I also read that an imambara is neither a dargah nor a mosque. It is just a gathering place for Shiah muslims for different ceremonies, particularly for Muharram-related rituals. I found that bhool-bhulaiya was an area within the Bara Imambara structure; it is a labyrinth and possibly the one and only permanent maze structure in the country. This aspect of...

I was going to visit Lucknow and tried to find out about the major tourist hot spots in the city. This is when I came to know about the Bara Imambara and Bhool-bhulaiya. Formally, the imambara is referred to as the Asafi Imambara. I also read that an imambara is neither a dargah nor a mosque. It is just a gathering place for Shiah muslims for different ceremonies, particularly for Muharram-related rituals. I found that bhool-bhulaiya was an area within the Bara Imambara structure; it is a labyrinth and possibly the one and only permanent maze structure in the country. This aspect of Bhool-bhulaiya is what intrigued me and made me visit the place. I opted for the services of a guide, though it is not that necessary if you do the research before visiting the Bara imambara. After entering the complex, I saw that it featured varied other structures in addition to the Bhul bhulaiya; there was a big Asfi mosque, an innovative step well with running water, and a bowli. The entrance to the primary hall was via two huge doors, a sign of grandeur of the nawabs during their rule. The guide informed me that the Bara Imambara complex was commissioned by the Nawab of Awadh, Asaf-ud-Daula, in 1784. The region was struck by famine and there were no jobs. Hence, the Nawab launched the construction of the Imambara so as to provide employment for the people of Awadh. You could say that this scheme was something like the MGNREGA scheme launched by the UPA government. I had read that the total cost of construction was somewhere between INR 500,000 to INR 1,000, 000. I also came to know that after the construction was finished, the Nawab continued to provide work in the form of yearly embellishment work, because the famine persisted. The work on the complex stopped after the famine ended. After entering the huge main chamber, I saw that no beams supported the ceiling. The guide told me that the lack of beam support is what made the building one of the biggest such arched structures on the planet. This central area was surrounded by 8 other chambers and each had varying roof heights. I saw that the area above these chambers was constructed as a 3-dimensional maze with passages that interconnected with each other via more than 100s of identical gateways. This section of the complex is known as the Bhool bhulaiya, mainly because it is so easy to get lost in the maze. This section was primarily built to support the weight of the roof which has no beam support; the labyrinth is an accidental element of the construction method used by the architect. I came away enamored by the beautiful architecture and the peaceful ambiance. Even though there was a guide with me, I avoided walking too deep inside the bhul-bhulaiya as I don’t particularly like the feeling of being lost. You may however give it a go. If you are in Lucknow, I would highly recommend that you add the imambara to your list of things to do.